THE ONLINE SHOP IS NOW CLOSED FOR CHRISTMAS
Back open 5/01
Digital gift cards can still be purchased. The Arachnamoria Care Guide, and the Arachnamoria Colouring Book will still be available on Amazon
THE CARE SHEET
Regal jumping spiders are easy to care for, even for novice keepers of inverts.
If you're looking for where to start then then look no further. In the care sheet I'll go over the basic care and what you will need to consider when thinking about getting a jumping spider. I'll also include care specific for 5th instar spiders (the age your most likely purchase a jumping spider at) as well as sub-adult and mature spiders for when they grow up. You'll also find a shopping list of what to get to make sure you are all set and ready to go.
SHOPPING LIST:
Starter enclosure 10x15cm (WxH)
D.Hydei fruit fly culture
Fine Mist Spray Bottle
Cleaning Kit
7watt reptile heat mat
Reptile thermostat
LED Daylight desk lamp
if not included with the home:
Spider Life Soil
Sphagnum Moss
Live Plant
Decor
Should I get a jumping spider?
Yes. Well, that’s the answer summed up. They are amazing little creatures with a bundle of personality.
With getting any pet, though, you need to think:
-Do you have the time and money to keep your little one happy and buy all the equipment they need to thrive and not just survive?
- Are you happy to handle other insects (they have to be live) that your jumping spider feeds on?
The best jumping spider for a new keeper is the Phidippus regius also known as a regal jumping spider and that is exactly the species I specialise here at Arachnamoria
But I am an arachnophobe…
That’s fine, so was I, but my view of spiders is changing day by day. I certainly don’t see mine the same way anymore. In fact, most common spiders look less ‘spidery’ to me too.
You can take your time getting acquainted with your spider, and if you can’t bring yourself to hold them, that is fine. They are just as happy just to be observed.
What will I need?
The first and foremost thing is an enclosure so let’s talk about that. Jumping spiders are arboreal, so this means they love to climb, hunt and live up in the trees. So, the first thing is to look for a nice tall enclosure.
The instar of the spider depends on the size of the enclosure
If you’re getting an 8th instar to adult spider, you can go for a bigger enclosure such as the Exo-terra nano tall or mini tall. Front opening is the best. Sizes should be around 15cm – 25cm wide, and always taller than it is wide,
Adults, regardless of their individual size, should not be kept in anything 12cm. It is common for tarantulas to be kept in smaller enclosures to help them hunt, and while this is true for baby jumping spiders around 3rd to 6th instar, it is not the same for an older jumping spider. Jumping spiders are one of the smartest, if not the smartest, spider in nature. They thrive in spacious enclosures where they can hunt and explore.
As mentioned before, 5th instar babies will need a smaller enclosure to help them learn to hunt and minimise the chance that they’ll escape through vents, or injure themselves in a fall. The size should be around 10cm wide and taller than it is wide.
5th instar spiders should not be kept in sling vials, or house in bug cubes commonly found on Amazon and Ebay, these are far too small.
There is a fantastic range of bits and bobs you can pop into your jumping spiders enclosure. It is wise to stay away from the dollshouse style enclosures filled with cute but inappropriate décor such as wool, crystals, and a lot of plastic. Fun plastic décor should be balanced with reptile safe driftwood, sphagnum moss and a decent spider substrate to make your spider feel at home and ensure they remain healthy.
Have a read of the enclosure blog here where you can explore what you can buy to go inside your spiders home. (coming soon)
The enclosure will need to be placed somewhere where the temperature isn't prone to rapid fluctuations such as a bathroom or kitchen, these areas are also unsuitable due to the cleaning products may use in them. A window ledge may seem like a great idea at first but they can be drafty, or strong sunlight may cause the enclosure to overheat quickly. Cabinets and shelves are the best choice, away from drafts, direct sunlight, and loud noises such as a TV.
**Warning** Chemicals in the air such as from cleaning products, air fresheners, scented candles or smoking/vaping have been noted to cause health issues and even the death of pet spiders. Please use caution and common sense around your pet to ensure their safety.
The enclosure won't need daily cleaning or substrate changing, once a month you can remove any insect remains, and wipe down the sides to clean them of spider poop as and when required.
What about heat?
Ahh, yes, the Phidippus species come from slightly warmer climates than the great weather here in Britain. It is advisable to have as they like to be be around 22 to 26oc, Yes they can survive at a lower temperatures but to thrive they shouldn't spend long periods below these temperatures.
For a comfortable, happy spider, I recommend using a heat mat and thermostat.
A 7watt heat mat is perfect and a separate thermostat that will control the mat according to the temperature of the enclosure. Check out this blog on heating your enclosure here.
You don’t need a dimmer thermostat, the mats naturally warm up steadily and cool down steadily. These are better suited to desert reptiles with heat lamps, and cost much more than a simple reptile thermostat.
What about light?
Have you tried wandering around your kitchen in the pitch black? It’s like a death trap, and no way to cook a roast dinner.
Jumping spiders have huge front facing eyes, not only adorable but designed for hunting their prey. They can’t hunt without enough light, and as we often have many dreary days here in the UK, I highly recommend you get a bright LED lamp, one that mentions daylight is fine, to have on for 12 hours of the day. There is no particular version of the LED lamp, so feel free to browse for one you like.
I would avoid bulbs, however, as these can add to the temperature of the enclosure and dry the air.
Have a read of the lighting blog here.
What do I feed my spider, and how does it drink?
Water is a simple one. They don’t drink from a bowl or a sponge; instead, they drink from tiny water droplets. It’s fun to watch a little spider making a trail on the side of their misted cage as they drink. Remember that their lungs are on their underside, so you’ll need a fine mist spray bottle. You can spay them once to twice a day which is not only good for hydrating them but also helps the humidity which is essential for a healthy jumping spider.
When it comes to food, size is a factor once again. Baby spiders of 5th instar will need fruit flies (not curly wings, or bottle flies) or hatchling locusts.
At around 7th instar the spider can move up to flying insects such as fruit flies, curly winged flies, green bottles and bluebottles. They can also have small to medium locusts, or a tasty wax worm. You can read up on what you can feed your jumping spider in this post here.
Be careful not to leave crickets and mealworms in the enclosure as both have a pretty nasty bite, and crickets are omnivores who can easily kill a fragile moulting spider.
A baby spider will need 2 large fruit flies every day, but as they get larger and their food gets larger, they will need feeding less often.
A good way to judge when next to feed is to look at their abdomen: If it is plump and round you can skip the feed that day and check back in a few more days
GET YOUR COPY!
Welcome to the adorably addictive world of regal jumping spiders. These amazing creatures are colourful, fluffy, interactive, and, as the smartest of all spiders, truly captivating.
This comprehensive guide is a one-stop resource, perfect for young keepers, novice keepers, and experienced invertebrate enthusiasts.
Featuring vibrant colour photography throughout, this book guides you through every step of providing a thriving home for your regal jumping spider pet.