The Care Sheet
Regal jumping spiders are easy to care for, even for novice keepers of inverts.
If you're looking for where to start then then look no further. In the care sheet I'll go over the basic care and what you will need to consider when thinking about getting a jumping spider. I'll also include care specific for 5th instar spiders (the age your most likely purchase a jumping spider at) as well as sub-adult and mature spiders for when they grow up. You'll also find a shopping list of what to get to make sure you are all set and ready to go.
GET YOUR COPY!
Welcome to the adorably addictive world of regal jumping spiders. These amazing creatures are colourful, fluffy, interactive, and, as the smartest of all spiders, truly captivating.
This comprehensive guide is a one-stop resource, perfect for young keepers, novice keepers, and experienced invertebrate enthusiasts.
Featuring vibrant colour photography throughout, this book guides you through every step of providing a thriving home for your regal jumping spider pet.
Should I get a jumping spider?
Yes. Well, that’s the answer summed up. They are amazing little creatures with a bundle of personality.
With getting any pet, though, you need to think: -Do you have the time and money to keep your little one happy and buy all the equipment they need to thrive and not just survive? - Are you happy to handle other insects that your jumping spider feeds on?
The best jumping spider for a new keeper is the Phidippus regius also known as a regal jumping spider and that is exactly the species I specialise here at Arachnamoria
But I am an arachnophobe…
That’s fine, so was I, but my view of spiders is changing day by day. I certainly don’t see mine the same way anymore. In fact, most common spiders look less ‘spidery’ to me too.
You can take your time getting acquainted with your spood, and if you can’t bring yourself to hold them, that is fine. They are just as happy just to be observed.
What will I need?
The first and foremost thing is an enclosure so let’s talk about that. Jumping spiders are arboreal, so this means they love to climb, hunt and live up in the trees. So, the first thing is to look for a nice tall enclosure. A good starting measurement is roughly 15x15x25cm. BUT the size of your enclosure depends new pet's size. Different species of Phidippus come in different sizes, it also depends on the moult stage of your spider so make sure to check with your breeder or supplier on the spiders current size. If you’re getting a sub-adult or adult spider, you can go for a bigger enclosure such as the Exo-terra nano tall or mini tall. A smaller spider will need a smaller enclosure to help them learn to hunt and minimise the chance that they’ll escape through vents, size is from about 10x7x7 cm. If in doubt about potential escape routes ask the enclosures seller for vent specifications if it isn't clear when browsing.
In the online shop we have a great starter kit!
-
Enclosure -
Starter for spider 5th - 7th instar
Larger for 8th - Mature
-
Heat Mat - must be used with a thermostat
-
Thermostat
-
LED Light
-
Fruit Fly Culture - D.Heydei
-
Fine Mist Sprayer
-
Cleaning Kit
Shopping List
The enclosure will need to be placed somewhere where the temperature isn't prone to rapid fluctuations such as a bathroom or kitchen, these areas are also unsuitable due to the cleaning products may use in them. A window ledge may seem like a great idea at first but they can be drafty, or strong sunlight may cause the cage to overheat quickly. Cabinets and shelves are the best choice, away from drafts, direct sunlight, and loud noises such as a TV.
**Warning** Chemicals in the air such as from cleaning products, air fresheners, scented candles or smoking/vaping have been noted to cause health issues and even the death of pet spiders. Please use caution and common sense around your pet to ensure their safety.
Did you know?
The Regal Jumping Spider comes from sub-tropical places like sunny Florida and the warm climates of Cuba and Jamaica. It is important for us to do our best to replicate the very best of their natural habitat to make sure we keep happy and healthy spider.
What about heat?
Ahh, yes, the Phidippus species come from slightly warmer climates than the great weather here in Britain. It is advisable to have as they like to be be around 22 to 26oc, Yes they can survive at a lower temperatures but I personally have mine set to drop no lower than 24oc
For a comfortable, happy spood, I recommend using a heat mat and thermostat.
What about light?
Have you tried wandering around your kitchen in the pitch black? It’s like a death trap, and no way to cook a roast dinner.
Like this, jumping spiders won’t hunt without enough light, and we often have many dreary days here in the UK. I highly recommend you get a bright LED lamp, one that mentions daylight is fine, to have on for 12 hours of the day. There is no particular version of the LED lamp, so feel free to browse for one you like.
I would avoid bulbs, however, as these can add to the temperature of the enclosure and dry the air.
What do I feed my spider, and how does it drink?
Water is a simple one. They don’t drink from a bowl or a sponge; instead, they drink from tiny water droplets. It’s fun to watch a little spider making a trail on the side of their misted cage as they drink. Remember that their lungs are on their underside, so you’ll need a fine spray bottle.
When it comes to food, size is a factor once again. Baby spiders will need fruit flies (not curly wings, or bottle flies) or newly hatched locusts as they grow.
Larger spiders prefer flying insects such as fruit flies, house flies, curly winged flies, green bottles and blue bottles. Fun Fact: A jumping spider can take down prey as big, sometimes bigger than themselves. They will also eat brown crickets, red runners, mealworms, wax worms/moths.
Be careful not to leave crickets and mealworms in the enclosure as they have a pretty nasty bite, and crickets can quickly kill a fragile moulting spider.
Depending on the size of the spider and the size of the prey, they can take a good few hours to bite, liquify and slurp up the insides of their prey. So a small spider might spend half a day or more eating their breakfast, whereas an adult spider might catch and eat a large bluebottle before you’ve even realised.
Unlike you or I, they don’t need feeding every day. A baby spider might need a fruit fly every two days, but a slightly older one might have eaten a large wax worm and not need feeding for 4 or 5 days.
A good way to judge is to look at their abdomen: Is their butt large and looking stretched after a feed? If so, check back in 3 days to see how it’s decreased in size (I wish mine did that), and you can offer another meal. You’ll soon come to learn the shapes of an overfed spider and when it’s time to feed again.